Mossys 3D Models

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Mossy, May 19, 2022.

  1. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Which all just shows how busy lumps of the Cloud are! Fusion 360 being cloud based suffers the same and can be &*(^% frustrating.
     
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  2. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    More experiments.

    Having failed miserably with the Krystal Clear the second option for windows is/was a bottle of clear Eco Resin which came as a free gift but has never been used. The plan draw up inserts for each of the window types and extrude them as thin as possible, I choose .5mm and .75mm just to see which worked the best. A few of each were printed off and looked really nicely crystal clear, into the wash machine and out came horribly opaque utterly useless windows. Another option written off - such is life.

    While all that was brewing I thought I would have a go at lining out the coach sides. I had a yellow fine liner pen so thought lets give it a bash. Not as easy as I thought and to be honest with a .7mm nib a bit thick, some good some bad some passable. Below a shot of one of the best bits. I have found and ordered a new liner with a .4mm nib, side two now awaits our beloved postal services.

    body c.jpg

    Mossy
     
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  3. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    You can probably recover those windows that you printed with some Johnsons Klear floor polish.

    Aero modellers use it to rejuvenate canopies in old kits. Grip the window in tweezers dip into Klear and allow to dry without touching anything - self locking tweezers recommended or you will be aching by the time it dries. I haven't tried it but apparently the result are quite amazing. I think Klear is now branded as Future and looks slightly opaque in the bottle but still dries clear.
     
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  4. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Cheers Rob I will see what can be done, I was planning to simple spray over the top with Crimson Lake and then reapply the detailing
     
  5. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Looking very good Mossy abait I appreciate the setbacks incured. Is it possible to rework some of the lining you're not happy with ?
     
  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Mossy

    Try wet sanding / polishing the surface before coating with clear or Humbrol Gloss cote.

    Of course there will be a video



    Paul
     
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  7. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Before going in search of Rob's floor polish I thought since the yellow linin is sitting on top of 2 health layers of gloss varnish and not knowing what the lining pens ink was why not give acrylic thinners a go. Experiments showed an ear bud soaked in thinners worked but ..., test 2 was a couple of drops of thinners dropped into a panel and left for a minute or so worked better, window surrounds didn't work as well but the lining comes away with a bit more work. The photo below is part of the first layer of clean up of the side, it will need another session and then I think another layer of gloss varnish just to make sure everything below is trapped in. Close up photos are really cruel aren't they!

    cleaned.jpg
     
  8. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes, did that on one of my loco window when I got glue on the glazing. good suggestion !
     
  9. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Out of interest,when I used to get resin bodies for locos back in the 90’s from silver fox, they Often came with talc on them.

    I thought it was part of the release agent from the moulds, but someone told me it was due to resin drying skin...

    Anyone confirm or use talc on their resin items at any point? (Other than making a resin filler)

    Cos the baby talc is great on your hands!
     
  10. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    I have tried using it to make filler but am not convinced how successful it was, as for resin drying skin I always understood once cured it is a pretty inert material.
     
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  11. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I have used talc and runny superglue to make filler very successfully.
     
  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Talc is used as a release agent for Whitemetal moulds. and as Mossy and Rob said a filler.

    I know with rubber products, chemicals will leech to the surface over time, but these tend not to be fully cured. Our resin prints we try to fully cure them - gently, as the curing process is exothermic, too quick a cure will produce yellowing (over cure or a burn), or even worse the model may crack.

    I saw a video today, where the prints were washed in Meths where the prints remained clear and not frosty.

    Paul
     
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  13. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    A digression.

    A couple of days ago while looking for a reference to the low arc coaches in the NER Express I stumbled across an article on revolving signals not a subject I knew anything about and in the next copy a dimensioned sketch with a detailed colour scheme, red rage to a bull. Seemingly common place the article written in 1962 pointed the author pointed out he knew of 3 that still existed. Anyway today I drew up three basic models, the mounting post, signal post and lamp, fired up the printer for a test print and now have 2 of these:

    revolving signal.jpg

    I haven't a clue what to do with them, but they can be used for painting practice.
     
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  14. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    That sounds interesting, another experiment me thinks, will these low arcs ever get finished.
     
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  15. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Clear resin…

    lamp heads sprint to mind!!
     
  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The Highland railway used some circular rotating signals at Halts - edge on don't stop, disk facing train stop to pick up passengers.
    I'm sure I have a drawing - somewhere safe, I even know its in a white folder, if I could only remember where the white folder was .........:facepalm:
     
  17. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul,

    I know diddly-squat about signalling but the article states the NER used these in 2 specific conditions:

    a) Country level crossings where the gates are normally kept closed to road traffic if the crossing is not kept protected by normal signals as in when a block post is adjacent.

    b) Where a road crosses sidings adject to a main line so that shunting takes place across the road. The revolving board only applies to the siding with the main line controlled by normal signals.

    Operated either by hand, a ground frame or signal box, case b above was always controlled from a signal box.
    Signal face on stop, face sided ways clear
     
  18. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I think the HR ones were requested stops by passengers - always ahead of the times, they were cost cutting before the word Austerity was invented :avatar:, you yorkshire folk have to get up real early to beat the scotsman :thumbs:
     
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  19. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    These look like an early form of low speed indicator signal often used also on light railways and in private networks such as inside dock systems, There were many forms of revolving shunt signal many worked by chain and wire from a lever frame or a combined release on a ground frame, the tall post mounted flag is more likely for sighting purposes.
     
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  20. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Something for the weekend? Two revolving board signals, that didn't take long.
    Going free to anyone who can give them a good home.

    Mossy
    signal 5.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2024
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