Mossys 3D Models

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Mossy, May 19, 2022.

  1. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    That can sometimes make it it harder to paint.. Swings and roundabouts Mossy...
     
  2. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    True Andy, but everything from the chassis down is black, so that minimises the problem and lots of the hard to reach areas could easily be hand painted.
     
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  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    It's suprising the number of faults filler and paint can fix - just ask any 2nd hand car dealer
     
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  4. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I would suggest getting some milled brass angle for the footboards, I bought some to replace the plastic footboards on my Slaters Brake van. When fitted it should help to strengthen it and take a few knocks that would damage printed of styrene strip boards.
     
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  5. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Hi Rob

    The problem isn't the running boards its the conflict between the supports for the running boards and the queen posts.
    I have a fix which has been applied to the dgm 104 and it's under skirt has been build, basically using small blocks glued to the underside drilled to move the queen posts backward 1.5mm. I am seriously thinking of stripping down the running boards and queen posts of the dgm 53 and applying the same fix to it.
    A neater solution will be applied to chassis before any more are printed. I will post a photo later, as Lynn is out and has my phone as hers is still bust.

    Mossy
     
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  6. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    As promised the updated chassis using the dgm 104 body. The small blocks which enable the queen posts to be moved backward can be seen on the righthand side. Everything looks so much better than the Dgm 53 solution so it's going to modified in line with this. The gas pipe lines linking the 3 tanks is entirely a function of imagination, the tanks just looked naked without them.

    underskirt 3.jpg
     
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  7. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    I finally got to spraying the underside after an epic of trying to mask off the body work, which frankly didn't work as is obvious:

    paint 2.jpg

    The question now is how to correct it, but that needs some thinking about so for now has been put.

    Along side of this I have been completing the dgm 52A 1st/3rd compo and doing the obvious and painting its interior first. This time around the underside will be masked and painted first as I think it will be easier to mask this off before spraying the bodywork. Since it hasn't been seen in public looks like this:

    52a - 1.jpg

    2 third class compartments at each end book ending 3 first class compartments.
     
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  8. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    When masking, I always mask onto the top of the solebar by taking the tape round and over the lip of the side as opposed to just on the edge of the side. I do this with Tamiya masking tape no wider than 10mm and usually 6mm. Then onto this I lay a sheet of paper (I save A4 sheets from letters/bills flyers etc. to use for masking) over the edge of the layer of tape and then using ordinary household masking tape I tape the paper to the Tamiya tape. You can always touch in the top edge of the solebar with a brush if necessary once the masking is off.

    Think - layer of Tamiya tape, overlap approx 1/3 with paper, then tape paper to Tamiya tape with masking tape. I do this so that you don't have too much masking tape in contact with the model. This makes it easier to remove and more importantly much less likely to pull any paint off when you remove it.
     
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  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I also use blu painters tape rather than standaed masking tape, the standard white masking tape tends to bond overtime with the model, the tamiya and blue tape isn't as bad so gives a bit more working time.

    Paul
     
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  10. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Thanks Rob, That was exactly the plan I came up after seeing the problem above, and yes I used 6mm Tamiya masking tape. followed by household tape and paper. The bit I got wrong was to overlap the Tamiya to the underside of the chassis. A lesson learned!
     
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  11. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Lesson learned and successfully applied. The dgm 52A has been undercoated red oxide all over, interior painted and using Robs logic the underskirt was successfully masked off and 4 costs of Crimson Lake applied. The 52 still needs its underside spraying black, that's for tomorrow morning. Following all that success I decided the only solution to the over spraying on the dgm 53 was to respray the body, another prolonged masking session before 2 extra coats of Crimson Lake applied. Photos to follow when there's some daylight, but they are starting to look like NER coaches.

    Now a question - Westinghouse Hoses, I think it should be body colour where it's attached, brass collar at the top, hose red and the connection again brass. Am I right?
     
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  12. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I cannot say for sure so please don't quote me Mossy but I'd pitch a guess at the Westinghouse hoses being vulcanised canvas coated rubber over a flexible wire spring insert... from pre Grouping of NSR bogie coach photos (and it is difficult to determine tones exactly) but my guess would be that such hoses would remain unpainted. The metal stems and swan necks would be painted presumably the coach body colour and the stoppers and connectors being cast iron would again not need painting... the vac and air fitting originally were cast iron only in later days were they cast in aluminium.. I couldn't say if any were ever cast in brass tho. I once saw some long condemed timber LMS covered vans used as salt sheds at Longport PCD and they had been fitted with cast iron vac pipe connectors... yes I know its not NER pre Grouping but short of a visit to the NRM to confirm that is the best I can do.

    cheers Paul
     
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  13. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul

    NRM is a good call we were there over Christmas with our Grandson, I will check if the team have any decent photos.
     
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  14. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Think you just volunteered yourself for a field trip @York Paul ! :giggle::giggle:
     
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  15. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Oh I do love a field trip... research just up my street.
     
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  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    If it was natural rubber latex applied to canvas, then probably vulcanised in an autoclav, original colour would probably a fawnish colour, but would dirty very quickly. Painting would effect the rubber assuming most paints were oil based, so unlikely to be applied, so were probably left with dust, grime and soot as the primary colourants. Dirty brown / black seems good for me.

    Paul
     
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  17. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I'd agree with that vac pipes or "bags" as they were refered to on BR were dust and dirt covered and looked a mucky grey brownish colour... I never say any painted. Slightly digressing but they also came in slightly differing lengths... can recall some 27 ton tipplers backed off in Park Sidings at Leekbrook and those pipes were shorter than ones filled to coaches or bogie stock. New bags were certainly a rubber dark grey colour and came with a little rectangular pink makers patch vulcanised on giving makers name date of manufacture and replacement date... I think they only had a two year life span... later badges were blue colour when the vac system was being phased out. Think the manufacturer was something like Vulcanise Rubber. I see when I can get to the NRM to do some fact finding re the NER Westinghouse spec.
     
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  18. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Sadly the only NER locos on display at the NRM are a Bouch long boilered 0-6-0 which doesn't have Westie brakes and one of the Shildon-Newport electrics, nether of which are any use. I have a copy of one of Chris Pulhams painting of a Class C, it's westie has a grey hose and lighter grey fittings top and bottom of the hose so I am going to go with that.

    Painting lessons the 2 low arcs have reached this state:

    paint 5.jpg

    There is just the westie hoses to do before they both gets a couple of layers of varnish.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2024
  19. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Sounds like there is a plan afoot Mossy, so if there are no true actual examples to research then photos it is... grey pipes sound correct and lighter grey will be the cast fittings... most likely freshly cleaned or new cast iron plugs and stoppers.
     
  20. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I am with Paul,

    Although I haven't done anything n pregroup livery I usually do westie and vac hoses in a greyish cream colour and the pipes and fittings black. So far nobody has come forward to say that I have them done in error. Things became a little more complicated after nationalisation as they had different colours for pipes depending on whether they were fitted stock or just through piped, but the bag bit would still be a dirty canvas colour
     
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