First crack at a brass fret model!

ianvolvo46 wrote:

Hmmmmmm, not sure about that, Ian, I just tend to 'bumble through', same as always!
Toto, I started with a 25 watt iron, which was quite adequate for soldering the inner corners, but it became obvious when I began tinning around the edges of both inner and outer sides, that I'd need much more heat. My intention was to ensure solder all the way around each inner and outer side panel, and even if I'd fired up one of my bigger wattage irons, I couldn't see it giving enough heat to melt solder over the entire panel. Using the blowtorch with a very small flame but constantly moving it, the entire outer panel just settled nicely onto the inner in each case, with no hassle.It may not be the usual or accepted method of doing this, but it works for me! I will be going back to smaller irons when it comes to attaching small straps, corners etc. hopefully further progress this afternoon.
Keith.

 

I do have a fibreglass pen Evan, but I've used some 0000 extra fine steel wool (the kind used when waxing hardwood) as my cleanup tool of choice. I've since added the rivet strips, catches etc to the body, but used superglue rather than soldering, as it's safer than risking unsoldering already fixed items with the blowtorch or even using a bigger soldering iron. I've now primed and painted the wagon, transfers next, and it'll then join the queue for my next bulk weathering session. Below is the blowtorch I've been using for assembly.....it's actually one that many UK plumbers use, although I only use propane as the fuel, there are cylinders of 'Mapgas' you can use which give temperatures high enough to braze with!
Keith.

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Hi Toto.
Yes, I suppose my blowtorch, in comparison with Chef's torches or similar, will seem like the proverbial sledgehammer to crack the nut, but because it's a 'Professional' rather than a 'DIY' tool, it's well up to the job, it's never short of heat, but you can turn it right down to a tiny flame. I doubt you'll find these "Bernzomatic" blowtorches in B&Q, but most plumbers merchants seem to stock them (and the replacement propane and Mapgas cylinders). I've found that superglue has no problem in fixing the small brass bits and pieces onto the body, but obviously, only after all heat applications have finished. Off out now to a big family meetup, but pics will follow, probably tomorrow.
Keith.

 

I've now been able to complete this wagon, paint and transfers applied, dummy ballast load sorted, not forgetting my usual 'Kadee' coupling fit.

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.....and the other side. Must admit, after my own research, confirmed by others re. the general opinion of Jidenco models, it has actually come out quite well and is a very solid wagon to boot. It's given me an insight into brass fret model building that will be useful when I start my GT3 project, as both loco and tender chassis are brass fret, so the experience is helpful to me anyway.

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.....but now the GT3 has been pushed a little further back, as I've just bought a couple of 'Cambrian' plastic kits. I've started the 'Borail' one, but it'll be delayed for a few days as I've had to order 10.5mm disc wheels, transfers and more Kadee No.5's! Still, it's all experience, and as 'British Rail' used to advertise, "We're getting there!"

Keith.

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