Toto has finally succumbed to the Dark side, and ordered up a starter kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ultimate-UNO-R3-Starter-Kit-for-Arduino-1602LCD-Servo-Motor-RTC-UKShipping/252870212084?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44760%26meid%3D097419c4b99444288dd221eaaaf543ef%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D272764373257 and some additional arduino Nano's - boy has the Dark side got it's teeth into him The arduino and its clones provide a cheap and versatile way of producing a programmable module, whether its a standalone module or part of an integrated system. The hardware and software are open source, so we won't have to worry about them going out of business and there being no support. So the idea is to do a series of introduction and tutorial threads, covering the likes of traffic lights, servo and stepper motors, detection, and then adding on to these projects to give DCC control. Bear in mind I'm not a programmer, I'm a bodger that's managed to get some things working. The software I'll be using is the arduino IDE https://www.arduino.cc/ go to the software page and select the download for your operating system. Also I'll be using Fritzing for the circuit diagrams http://fritzing.org/home/ Both of these software are available for free, but if you wish you may choose to donate something to the support of the applications. Anybody interested ? Paul
Kicking and screaming I think they would call it. There are a few projects that will suit my purposes and some should lie at the start of the learning spectrum. Triggering flashing lights and maybe some sound projects. I think this section will be Pauls domain somehow but the tutorials that he is proposing could be a good facility for anyone to follow along to. The starter kit that I purchased was £28.00 and it has all you require to get the starter projects going. The starter kit could be bought by others if they fancy taking part. I'll let you know when the stuff comes. Toto
The first parts will only need and Arduino Uno R3 or compatible, some LEDs, a few 1K resistors a breadboard and jumper wires will make things easier. A compatible board can be picked up from fleabay for approx £4 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-UNO-R3-ATmega328P-Development-Board-for-Arduino-Compatible-CH340G-USB-Cable-/232361025526?hash=item3619cbdff6:gZ4AAOSwHnFVh8gT Breadboards can be picked up for a couple of pounds http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solderless-Prototype-Breadboard-Various-Sizes-Optional-65x-Jumper-Wires-/121353347660?var=&hash=item1c4139224c:m:mPFtl4troevOu-3nUcHKVjg I have bought Resistors, LEDs and wires from Brightcomponents - no link to them apart from being a frequent satisfied customer. Paul
Arduino Uno R3 Actually this one is an original, I have others that are clones, they all work the same. Going round the board from the left hand sdie we have a power socket - the arduino runs off 5V DC, however the board is fitted with a voltage regulator, and take a supply voltage of up to 12V DC. Next up is a USB interface, this is to connect to the arduino to your PC. For the starter projects it can also provide the power for the arduino and the rest of the attached devices. Top left hand corner is the reset button. This change change location on some of the clones. Along the top edge we have the I2C connection, AREF (we'll use these in later tutorials), GND (ground, common or 0V) the rest are Digital I/O pins. Those marked with a ~ can be used as PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) outputs, these will allow us to control motor speeds or dim lights / LEDs. Pins 0 to 2 can also be used for serial I/O. Not much on the right hand side for us to worry about. Along the bottom right to left A0 to A5 - 6 analog inputs, although they can be used as additional digital I/O. The remaining pins are for power and reset, we will deal with these a bit later. The above bread board has 456 pins, divided into 2 x 6 rows of 30 colums, in the main central area. The top and bottom areas are designed for power distribution, with a common ground or 0v (black) across the top and bottom , whereas the +ve is split into 4 - 8 socket sections, which would allow you to have 4 different voltages supplied to the circuits. Paul
I suspect it will take two or three reads but it does sound reasonably understandable when broken down like that. As far as the breadboard goes, I need to get a grip of the relationship between each row " electrically " and the same with the power zones. Are each of the rows electrically isolated ? Cheers Toto
For the central area the columns are connected, so any thing column 1 from a1 to af are connected. The break between row f & g is a full insulated break. For the power lines (not all breadboards have them), the black lines (ground) run the width of the board, if you want them to be common on both sides of the board, you'd link them. The red has 2 x 6 pin block (red line denotes the blocks), per side (top and bottom), you can have them as independent blocks or link them together. Paul
Did you mean anything from a1 to f1 is linked ? That co.mn would be isolated from column a2 to f2 ? Maybe ?
I'm interested to follow along with this - not sure if I have a use for Arduino on any of my layouts but keen to learn and see if a project or 2 might be useful. Ian
This is definitely what I need to get me started. I bought an Arduino starter pack several months ago, and it's still in it's box untouched, partly because of other projects, but also because I haven't much idea of where to begin. I'll have to be cautious with my 'dabbling' software-wise because I'm using an iMac rather than a PC, but I'll just adopt my usual "Blunder through" approach! Keep an eye out for white smoke over Morton (and it won't be because they've just chosen another Pope!) Keith.
I remember having one of these. http://radio.gort.dk/page089.htm Can't be that much different......................................... can it Ed
When I was still at school around 1960, we had an old guy locally who ran a ramshackle series of sheds as a business, selling ex-forces 'electronic' (for that, read 'Valves') equipment very cheaply, ie, schoolboy pocket money. Self and 3 pals accumulated many types of radio, radar, oscilloscopes, communications receiver/transmitters etc over time, modifying some but getting them working and (illegally) using 'ham' radio long before the rise of 'CB' radio. We progressed as transistors became available (Mullard OC44/5, OC71/2), learning as we went on, but on leaving school, I diverted into becoming an Electrician, still dabbling and building "Heathkit" electronic kits, and although I'm no 'expert', I still have an interest practically, theory is something else though! Keith.
Toto has a book - Oh dear - it is true and not a rumour now i'm in it up to my neck Keith - the latest version of the Arduino IDE software runs on OXS 10 Lion and above You can also install the Arduino IDE software on a Raspberry Pi http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Install-Arduino-IDE-on-Raspberry-Pi-in-2-St/
Been reading my book. Can't make up my mind what I think of it. I think some of it could eventually stick. Can only handle short bursts of it at a time.
Working on the first video - its rough, actually very rough, not up to Gormo's standards but we all start somewhere Toto, it will make more sense when you have the arduino in front of you, and can play. A lot of it you don't need to understand (at first), but as you use it it will sink in - honest. If I pull this off I may change my job and become a car salesman, estate agent or politician Paul
I'll take your word for it. I think piecing the parts together to make a puzzle work by just copying what has went before may be ok but I've been looking at the scripting. Even that to a certain point. There are a few rules / constants that once you get your head around may fall into place. Rightly or wrongly , I liken it to writing excel formulae. Certain characters to string an argument or set of conditions together and you fill in the blanks. I think the above is true for the simpler scripts. It just gets a little more complicated with the more strings that you add in. Again, like excel, accurate inputting ( in the correct order ) is paramount. Interesting. Toto
I'm in. Many thanks for the opportunity. Would like to make a turntable controller for my DC N gauge layout. I'll order the starter kit and let you know when I get it. In the meantime carry on Paul Cheers Marty
Hi Marty, Glad to hear it. A turntable controller. smells of stepper motors , the eye of a toad and the tail of a black cat to me. Now ....... Sit up in class or you'll go straight to the naughty corner.