Just didn't want to hear one of your DMUs had done something similar to my Bachmann J11 on my old layout. (Admittedly, I did leave the bridge section open and wasn't watching ) Ed
Well you were right to point it out Ed, I think I`ve probably got away with it for quite some time, but realistically it was only a matter of time, especially now with point work so close to the bridge. I covered leaving the bridges down when they were first built, by adding micro switches under them. When they are down, they create isolated sections which prevent trains from doing the leap of death. Anyway, I suppose it`s time to go out to the shed and see how yesterdays effort has turned out..?? Gormo
Thanks Toto, Yes it works pretty well, I had to do some testing and adjustments yesterday, but all is good.... The springing was too heavy on one point for pony trucks on a couple of locos. Didn`t think of pony trucks when I designed it.....but nonetheless it works now. I also had one open wagon that was playing up. Strange as , even though it was a second hand purchase, it had extra weights added and as such should have been a star performer. Therein lays the trap........previous owner has added extra weight to try and overcome poor running qualities. I re-gauged the wheels and changed the couplings from old tension lock down to small Bachmanns. I also cleaned out the wheel bearings as the wheels weren`t running freely. The result is that it runs like a little beauty now.!!!! I really should do a serious article on the pitfalls with mixed size / type tension locks as they can cause all sorts of probs especially with small radius points. The hook from a large tension lock will probably cause the wagon to derail if the wagon is connected to a wagon with a small tension lock if they are passing through a tight radius point. I think the rule should be, whatever coupling system you use, make it the standard right across your rolling stock. I think I`ve just worked out my next Gormo`s Shed..???? Gormo
Sound advice about couplings there Gormo, along with rolling stock maintenance. Sometimes both of these items get neglected.
G`day Folks, Well I`m getting back into scenery after my brief holiday with electrics and passing loops etc. I think it`s probably good for me........don`t know about you guys????.......but the change in things being worked on seems to generate the interest a bit more. Anyway, I`ve started to work on my Nissen huts. They were a gift for Christmas from SWMBO, along with some other bits and pieces. This is the great thing about having a hobby folks......at my time of life, I don`t need much......so ordinarily I would be difficult to buy for, but having a train set ( that`s what the uninitiated call it.???) opens up all sorts of possibilities. I mean.......I don`t expect relatives and friends to go out and buy me expensive locos or coaches or digital systems, but a little box of platform people or a rail side hut or some telegraph poles or whatever... is nice. It gives them a connection with the railway too and the pleasure of knowing they have contributed in some small way. So.......the Nissen huts are from Ratio. The kit can be made into one big one or two small low relief huts. I am taking the second option due to space restrictions. Even though the kit is designed to be one or two huts, there are actually six end walls, so I may be able to squeeze three out of it.......still thinking about that one.. I`ve started with spraying the roof. Its ever so slightly patchy deliberately, and some extra distressing will be added once the huts are built. The end walls have also been sprayed. At this stage I`ve added two brown tones and may do a third tomorrow. The windows and doors will be sprayed also once the brick is absolutely dry. Mortar colour has been added to one wall to see how it looks. I may blend some yellow to the white to get a more creamy colour. The jury is still out on that one. The white mortar below was done with acrylic air brush paint, brushed on thinly into the mortar lines and then the excess was wiped off with a cloth. The airfield awaits these little buildings. They will also have some power poles added to them and whatever odds and sods I can come up with, including signage of some description. More as it happens Gormo
Hi Gormo Just an observation having worked in the field of Architectural Conservation for the last 30+ years. Mainly as a Stone Mason, I have also carried out a number of Brickwork jobs too. Only very rarely do you actually see white pointing, which is most common in gauged brickwork where the joints are down to a couple of mm. The most common mixes for pointing are a 6 to 1 mix. Six aggregate the most common of which is building sand which has a lot of Iron oxide in it. The one cement is usually ordinary Portland cement (OPC). This results in a brownish mid grey coloured mix.
I'm sure, many, many, many years ago I saw brickwork where the mortar was almost white. 'course could be the old mind going a bit Ed
Hello once more Sorry I don't mean to hi-jack your thread Gormo. What I should have added prior to the Victorians re-discovering cement all building mortars and plasters would have been made from Lime and would have been whiter in nature.
Ah !!!! Good advice Dublo.......thanks for that.. The white was really a test run to see if the process was effective......once done of course the white is too white. I will brew up a colour based on your knowledge of the subject. Thank you Gormo
G`day Folks, Managed to get back into the shed and finish off one little Nissen hut. I`ve got one more partially complete and decisions to be made on whether to create another two after that one? So here it is on the airfield. Not sure on the placement yet and of course that will depend on how many of them I make too.?? I must say that they are right little so and so`s to assemble. You have to cut accurately on the roof sections and when gluing them to the front and back walls, you need to get it right first go. I would suggest that if you attempt making them, that you have plenty of practice runs holding the roof in place without glue. Get your method worked out first before committing to gluing the roof in place. There is a bit of flexibility in the building once assembled, due to the roof section being very thin styrene, so when it comes to gluing them permanently in position, the task will be somewhat easier if the ground is slightly uneven. The buildings are supposed to look weathered / distressed and or in need of some maintenance, so I`ve been at work with the pastels to add some rust stains and other stains overall. The brick work was sprayed with three different tones of brown Matt enamels. The mortar courses where done with No More Gaps joint sealer. The sealer was applied neat in small sections and then wiped off with a clean finger and the wiping was repeated until the desired effect was achieved. Once the mortar was completed I used a small artist`s paint brush, which was cut down to create a short stiff brush. I rubbed the brush into my pastel sticks to pick up grains of pastel and then dry brushed it onto the bricks in downward strokes. The same method was used to apply rust stains to the roof. So as usual folks........more as and when it happens. Gormo
I think you have done a top job on the bricks and weathering I think more is better, an airfield would definitely not just have one. Unless you can extend them, I think you should show end on and hide the back end some how, as the kit seems very short, I think most where a lot longer in real life
Hi Gormo I think you have captured the spirit of the brickwork well. It certainly gives the impression of a hastily built, poorly maintained structure.
Hi Gordon you have done a fantastic job on the Nissan hut having seen many of them on old Lincolnshire airfields I think you have captured it perfectly as to length the ones I have seen have been both the long and short ones captain pugwash