In the early hours I got the chance to put together the second most labourious task of the kit - the footsteps. These are designed to swing out as the bogies turn and you'll see how it's done later. This is really fiddly and requires (For me) a magnifying glass and an ability to be very quick with the soldering iron.
At long last I returned this evening to the Class 15 which has lain idle since approxamately two months after I planned to finish it. I added some bits to the bogie which I'd lost, the rad' fan grill and exhaust ports and a fair bit of filler. I've actually over done it, it didn't need that much but at least I can sand it back down. I'll do more tomorrow.
Back to the bogies tonight and the most awkwatd task in the kit - the gaurds protecting the brake gear. Why do you fit them? I hear you ask. Because the side on shot clearly show's them as can be seen. These are sub assemblies I did earlier in the build and as you can see are awkward to keep square and aligned. You can see the one I missed.
And on the correct thread. Sunday is very much playtime for me. Physically and mentally exhausted I can't get into my design stuff so it's just pottering around and doing odd bits and pieces. In fact all week I've been knackered but I have managed to dress the Class 15 bogies with the white metal castings. These I found, are best attached using Araldite and left to dry one side/end at a time. Couple of errors here and I'm using reject castings (note one of the dampers is a bit short and compensating beam out of line) but this can be dealt with when finished it should look good.
That's looking good Steve... we like Sundays for playtime also... particularly if building girder bridges
Whilst I'm awaiting a Skype call I decided to make up the fuel tank section and the stop taps that are quite a visible feature. I also added the shore isolating switch as well. This involved drilling out with a 0.7mm drill both the castings and the fuel tank which actually I managed without serious incident. Firstly I soldered wire to the stoptap heads and trimmed to length. Then I added a spigot of wire to the fuel tank to accept the small castings. With the heads and stem glued in place I was able to locate them securly in place. There are two lengths, the longer one goes on the side of the tank with No1 end facing to the left. You'll see this later. The shore isolator was made from a household pin cut to length.