David Andrews Princess Royal - 6206 Princess Marie Louise

Today saw the last of the tiny components that make up the cylinder drain pipes made and assembled. I also ended up with a nice little bag of extra nuts. I made six for the operating bar and then decided they were a little big (lengthwise) so I made some smaller ones.

Each one is made from 16 individual parts and the valves are a bit of a work of fiction because I couldn't find any clear photos of what is actually under there but they pass muster when compared to the castings that I have in various kits and at least they fit this particular loco.

The clips that hold the pipes together are still loose and able to slide along the pipes at the minute until I get them fitted and can determine their final position.

 

The last parts to be made and fitted are the cinder guards that fit on the cab side. Even though they are nickel on this kit, they are very vulnerable and a friend mentioned that he always models them folded back which seems like a good idea. but I was concerned about painting around them. I also had the idea that I would like them to fold in like the real thing and so I decided to experiment with the extra etched frame that David supplies.

I cut off the two pegs that fit into holes etched in the cab side and soldered a length of 0.5mm piano wire on the back of the frame. Then I drilled a length of 2mm x 2mm brass angle at the ends and soldered in some filed down brass dressmakers pins which I cut down to fit through the holes in the cab. I then drilled the other leg of the angle to accept the pain wire and once soldered to the cab it folds back just like the real thing.

Having got the first one fitted I made up the second. Which I took a photo of. Keen eyed readers will note, that there is only one bracket. Sadly, the second made a bit for freedom as I was shortening the peg after a test fit. So unless a miracle happens I will be making up another.

 

Yes, especially since I no longer have my oversized 5p coin...

I thought that was it for the actual making of parts but this morning I remembered that I still need to make an insulated drawbar.

 

Well, I need to finish the 8F next but that's also well on its way. After that it will be something North Eastern.

 

Something a little different and a first for me.

 

It's a Judith Edge kit but I will be adding to it no doubt...

 

The last week or so has been spent on lots of little jobs that don't seem to change much visibly on the model. The visible bits are the trimming of the cylinder drain pipes and having to rethink how I planned to mount and retain the motor from moving.

I also milled a hex on the ends of the front crank pins to replicate the fitting on the prototype.



I had initially envisaged that the mtor would sit flat and I did add a nut on to a frame spacer to retain it via a strap around the motor but it wouldn't fit through the hole in the firebox with it in this position. My final solution was to replace the rear frame spacer with one that is removable. This was needed because the large final drive gear on the ABC gearbox wouldn't pass between the gap under the existing frame spacer and the top of the rear frame section. A different motor gearbox combination might not have needed this solution.

Now that it's removable, the motor/gearbox can be lifted out for maintenance etc. and the position of the spacer once fitted, also acts as a stay preventing the gearbox from rotating about the axle. Win, win.

 

Hi Ken,
It was suggested, when I made the castle nuts but it was a challenge too far.

 

One of the things that I have never been entirely happy with on previous locos is the fitting of additional lead weight to the boiler. Tank engines are a bit simpler because the lead sheet can be fixed in the tanks and enclosed. It's not so much the fitting of the lead, so much as how to retain it and stop it from shifting over time.

Previously where needed I have used epoxy or 100 degree solder to fix it in place (I have built a number of DJH kits and on those the weight of the cast boiler was more than enough without adding additional weight). This time I thought I would try a different method first I rolled up some sheet lead and then some adjustment to make it fit. I used a hollow punch to cut out a section to fit around the base of the top feed which helped to hold the lump of lead in place next I drilled the bottom of the boiler being careful to site the hole behind the middle splasher so it wouldn't be seen from the side. Then I tapped the hole as deep as I could 10ba and then screwed in a 1 inch 10 ba screw being soft lead once the screw got beyond the tapped section it continued to cut it's own thread and now the ballast is held firmly in place.







I would be interested in the methods used by other builders to retain lead ballast in boilers.